House and Home at Craft Village

Troubleshooting your Plumbing

            Times are tough. There’s no doubt about that. To help all of us get through this together I’m posting some great information we can all use. This week I’ve found a wonderful site. Plumbing.Eyre.Ca is loaded with great information that we can all use. I invite you to visit
http://plumbing.eyre.ca/ to find more information on a wide range of topics. In the mean time, I’ll focus on a different area each week and archive all the information.

Trouble Shooting Plumbing Problems

1.         Probably the most important thing to do, and the one that we are least likely to do, is to know where the main shut off valve is for the water in our home or building. If a pipe breaks the faster you can shut off the water the less damage you will have. Find the main shut off valve and identify it by stapling a brightly colored strip of plastic around the valve. Make sure the plastic can’t come off. You can even take a Sharpie pen and write “Water Main” on the strip of plastic. Don’t use paper. If it gets wet it will disintegrate. Show the main to the rest of the family and explain to them the importance of quickly shutting it off in the case of a broken pipe.

2.         Put a little food coloring in your toilet tank. Wait about ½ hour. If no dye appears in you toilet bowl everything is fine. If dye does appear in your toilet bowl you probably should replace your ball or the flapper. Detecting this problem early could save both you and the environment from unnecessary water usage do to a leaky flapper.

3.         If you have mineral rich water then you also have mineral deposits on your showerhead. These can, over time, clog your showerhead and prevent the passage of water. Here’s an easy remedy. Put about 1 ½ C. of vinegar in a baggy and place it over the showerhead. Use a twist tie to hold the baggy in place and leave it there for about 8 hours. Take the baggy off and clean the showerhead with an old toothbrush. If necessary repeat. Once you have the showerhead clean just repeat this process as necessary to keep your showerhead clean and flowing properly. You can do the same thing for the other faucets in your house.

4.         From time to time we all notice a foul smell coming from the area of the garbage disposal. This is usually caused by grease that has collected in the garbage disposal and does not easily wash away. Here’s a great way to remedy this problem. Place ice cubes and the peel from citrus fruit (lemon, orange, lime or grapefruit) in you garbage disposal and run it for about 45 seconds. You can rinse by running cold water for a few seconds or just enjoy the citrus smell.

5.         If you notice a whistling sound from your toilet you probably have a slow leak in the fill valve and you should replace it.

6.         When the Bathroom sink and tub drains are slow it is probably due to hair that has collected just inside the drain. Remove the stopper and clean out all the hair you can. Run water to see if the problem has been solved. If the problem persists try using a plunger. If you still have a slow running drain it would be best to call your plumber. Be aware that putting chemicals or high pressure in your drain could cause serious damage.

7.         If your water bill has jumped dramatically and there is no reason for it to you may have an underground leak. Checking for this problem is relatively easy. Turn off the main valve so that no water is flowing into the house. Open a faucet and leave it open until no more water flows. Go out side and look at your meter. If it is still running then you have a leak somewhere between your meter and the house. Sometimes a wet area in the lawn between the house and the meter will indicate a possible place where your pipe is leaking.

8.         Lack of hot water or running out of hot water quickly. There are three possibilities here.
            The first is that the dip tube, which resides in your water heater, is broken and is allowing cold water to enter the tank and mix with the hot. This can happen to both gas and electric hot water heaters. For this you will need a plumber and possibly a new hot water heater.
            The second occurs in electric hot water heaters. The lower element may not be operating properly. This could be due to a number of reasons. I know that when we lived in a lime rich area lime would adhere to the lower element of our hot water heater and the weight of the lime deposits would eventually break the lower element. It is best to replace the element right away when you feel the water is not getting as hot as it should. If mineral deposits are the problem then you may want to invest in a water filtrating system.
            Thirdly check your thermostat to be sure it is function properly.

9.         To close down a house for the winter, do the following to ensure that the pipes won’t freeze. Shut off the water supply at the main shut off valve. Starting on the top floor open all faucets and leave them open. Shut off and drain the hot water tank. Make sure that all the horizontal pipes are well drained. Open all the p-traps under sinks, toilets, tubs, and laundry and use a wet/dry vacuum to remove any water trapped there. Flush toilets to remove all the water. Fill traps with DEQ approved non-freezing solution such as mineral oil, windshield washing solution, or RV anti-freeze. If your house is heated by hot water or steam you must drain those pipes and the boiler too. When returning to your home be sure to refill all systems before lighting the hot water heater and the boiler.

10.       How to keep your pipes from freezing.
            Keep a trickle of water running from the faucets.
            Place a warm light or small heater near the pipes.
            Wrap pipes with newspaper, foam, or insulating tape.
            Leave the doors open so warm air can circulate around pipes.

            To thaw frozen pipes.
            Inspect the pipes carefully to be sure they haven’t already burst. If you thaw burst pipes, they will leak.
            Shut off the water at the main shut off valve.
            Open the faucet nearest the pipe so it can drain as the pipe thaws.
            Put down plastic sheets and pots to catch any water that leaks.
            There are several things you can use to thaw a pipe. Always start the heating process at the faucet and work toward the frozen area.
                        A propane torch with a flair spreading nozzle will thaw a pipe quickly but be careful not to start a fire with any surrounding                               materials. Don’t let the pipe get too hot to touch.
                        A hairdryer can do the same job, but slower and safer.
                        Wrap the frozen area with a heating pad and heat the frozen pipe until it thaws.
                        For pipes that are located behind walls, floors or ceilings be point a heat lamp at the area and wait for the pipe to thaw.
                        When loosening frozen connection douse the connection with penetrating oil and wait 30 minutes. Loosen with a wrench.

11.       If there is a foul odor coming from a bathroom you rarely use it is probably because the water in the trap has evaporated. Simply pour a bucket of water into each sink, tub, shower and floor drain. When the trap fills the odor should subside.

12.       Garbage Disposals –
            Do run a strong flow of water when you are grinding up food.
            Do run water for 30 seconds after running the disposal and if you have a double sink also run water in the side that does not house the disposal.
            Do run the disposal every time waste is put into it.
            Do grind up foods in small amounts at a time.
            Do run the disposal with ice and citrus peel to deodorize it occasionally.

            Do not attempt to grind up bones, shells or fibrous materials such as corn cobs.
            Do not try to grind up large amounts of food at one time.

            If your garbage disposal does not work, that is there is no noise when it is turned on, it usually means that the disposal jammed and the current overload tripped the circuit breaker.
            First locate and press the rest button (usually on the bottom of the unit). Check for a clog before starting the unit.
            If the disposal still won’t start check the electrical panel and then check again for a clog before turning the disposal on.
           
            If the disposal makes a buzzing noise and won’t operate turn it off.
            Look inside the unit to see if there is a spoon or other object that needs to be dislodged.
            Before putting your hands into the disposal be sure to turn it off at the breaker panel.
            If this does not work call a plumber.

13.       Septic systems. Septic systems should be inspected and pumped a MINIMUM of once every three to four years. Neglecting this could cause unwanted solids to flow into the drain field, which is the part of the system that allows water to drains into the ground. If solids flow into the drain field it becomes blocked and ineffective. A blocked drain field is costly to repair or replace.

14.       If you suspect you have a plumbing leak in your crawlspace, You should determine if the source is the water supply system or a drain. If the leak is in the water supply system - shut off the water to the house immediately.  If it is a drain, stop using the fixture(s) connected to the drain - shut off the water to the fixture(s).  Call your plumber immediately in either case.  Due to health and safety reasons you may need to also call a specialty pumping or remediation service.

15.       Small leaks in a pipe can often be repaired with a rubber patch and metal clamp or sleeve. This must be considered as an emergency repair job and should be followed by a permanent repair as soon as possible. A leak at a threaded or soldered connection should be considered a major repair. A plumber should be called.

16.       Leaks in water heaters are usually caused by corrosion. Sometimes a safety valve may fail to open and the excessive pressure will spring a leak. While a leak may occur at only one place in a tank wall, the wall may be corroded in other places as well. Therefore, any repair must be considered as temporary, and the tank should be replaced as soon as possible.

17.       Frequently what is perceived as a lack of pressure is really a reduction in volume.  This is an important distinction.  Pressure will be consistent through out your plumbing system and is rarely low  through out the house.  This can be easily tested with an inexpensive gauge form your hardware store, sold usually near sprinkler system parts.  Testing is done by screwing the gauge onto a hose bib (normal pressure will be between 55 and 75 psi.).
On the other hand low volume can be specific to an individual plumbing fixture or through out the entire plumbing system. 
If both hot and cold water are affected in only some of the faucets, probably the aerator is congested with rust and corrosion. The aerator is located on the end of the faucet spout to introduce air into the water as it come out of the faucet. On newer faucets, it also restricts the water flow.
You should be able to remove the aerator by hand. Disassemble all the parts, being especially careful to lay the parts out in the order they are removed. Clean the rust or corrosion from each part and reassemble in exact order. If that doesn't work, the problem may be in the faucet or the plumbing system and you should call your plumber.

18.       The water line coming in from the street is often connected to the water meter followed by a master shut-off valve for the entire home. Close this one valve and you have shut off water throughout the house - it's instant action for serious emergencies. If you need to shut off the water at the main valve, make sure the hot water tank is turned down to pilot. If you have a hot water heating system you will also need to make sure the furnace has a sufficient supply of water. (This should be checked often.) Electrical hot water tanks require special attention; and it is best top enlist the aid of a plumbing and heating professional. However, if the emergency calls for the main water system to be shut off, the electric water heater must also be shut off at the main electrical fuse box by either removing the fuse from the box or switching the breaker to an "off" position. The electricity to the hot water tank should not be turned on until the water tank has been refilled with water - see the owner's manual that comes with the electric hot water heater.

19.       To effectively maintain your water heater, don't just drain it periodically, but flush it. After the heater is totally drained, open the valve and let water in while the drain is open. The drain on the water heater is located off the bottom of the tank and the flushing action will stir up sediment and let it pass though the drain valve

20.       Pipe noises range from loud hammering sounds to high-pitched squeaks. The causes may be loose pipes, water logged air chambers, or water pressure that's too high. Anchoring exposed pipes is a simple solution; other remedies such as anchoring pipes concealed inside walls, floors or ceilings, may call for a professional.

Banging Pipes are usually anchored with pipe straps every 6 to 8 feet for horizontal runs, 8 to 10 feet for vertical.
* If your pipes bang when you turn on the water, you may need to add straps, cushion the pipes with a rubber blanket, or both.
* When you anchor a pipe-especially a plastic one-leave room for expansion.
* Don't use galvanized straps on copper pipes.
Squeaking: Only hot water pipes squeak. As the pipe expands, it moves in its strap, and friction causes the squeak. * Solution: Cushion it as you would a banging pipe.
Water Hammer: This noise occurs when you turn off the water at a faucet or an appliance quickly. The water flowing through the pipes slams to a stop, causing a hammering noise.
Check for: * Loose Pipes
Remedy:* Anchor the pipes.
Check for: *Faulty air chambers. These lengths of pipe, installed behind fixtures and appliances, hold air that cushions the shock when flowing water is shut off. They can get filled with water and lose their effectiveness.
Remedy:* To restore air to the chambers, turn off the water at the main shutoff valve. Open all the faucets to drain the system. Close the faucets and turn the water on again. The air chambers should fill with air.
Check for: * Water pressure that's above 80 psi (pounds per square inch).
Remedy: * To lower the pressure, install a pressure-reducing valve (you can call in a plumber to do the work if this is a job you don't want to do yourself).
The general types of noises from pipes found in the home are banging, water hammer, squeaking, chattering and whistling.   If there is the sudden appearance of one of these sounds, this indicates that something has changed or failed.  Frequently this is the pressure in your house.  While this alone will not cause noise, a change in pressure from 60 to 120 psi will frequently make the noise loud enough to be audible and annoying.  An immediate suspect should be your pressure reducing valve (PRV).
Banging usually occurs when you turn on your water.  This is an indication that your pipes are not sufficiently strapped.
Water hammer is the thump that occurs when you turn off the water at a faucet or an appliance quickly.  It is a pressure shock wave caused by a sudden  in the plumbing system.  Pumps, valves, faucets, toilets and fast-acting solenoid valves are examples of devices that can induce water hammer.  This shock wave can exert tremendous instantaneous pressures, sometimes reaching 150 to over 1000 psi.  The noise is only an audible symptom of what is going on in the piping. The piping is being subjected to the wear and tear of a multitude of shock waves. The result will be leaks in piping, tanks or fixtures unless the condition is corrected.
Sometimes water hammer is due not to the plumbing in the house in which it is heard but to a condition outside of the house (such as a sprinkler system), or in a neighboring house. In such cases, skillful detective work by an experienced plumber is necessary to ferret out the source of the trouble and to plan corrective methods.  Water hammer should not be permitted to go on indefinitely.   It can usually be eliminated by the installation of  special devices known as shock arrestors on the main line near the meter or as close as possible to the cause of the noise. 
Squeaking is caused by the hot water pipes.  As hot water moves through the pipes the pipes heat and expand, then when the hot water stops, the pipes cool and contract.  This expansion and contractions causes movement against the pipe strapping, which can cause squeaking.  Sometimes it can actually sound like dripping water.
Chattering in the piping may be caused by loose pipes, by pipes rubbing against a metal projection, by worn faucet washers or looseness of other inside parts.
Whistling is caused by the speed of water flowing through piping which is usually too small. A pressure reducing valve will help as will a general straightening out of the plumbing system. Whistling is most common at bends and tees in the pipe.

21.       • Read the water meter, noting the position of the clock-style hand that records individual gallons.
            • Wait at least 15 minutes without using water.
            • Look at the meter again to see if the hand moved. If it did not, there are probably no leaks. Waiting longer between meter readings (overnight, for instance) might help you detect slow or intermittent leaks.
            • If the meter hand moved, check all of your faucets for visible leaks.

22.       In a plumbing emergency, you'll need to stop the flow of water quickly. To do this, you and each member of your family needs to know the location of the shutoff valve for every fixture and appliance, as well as the main shutoff valve for the house, and how they operate.
* If the emergency involves a specific fixture or appliance, first look for its shutoff valve and turn it clockwise to shut off the water to that fixture or appliance only.
* The valve is usually located underneath a fixture such as a sink or a toilet, or behind an appliance, such as a clothes washer, at the point where the water supply pipe (or pipes) connects to it.
* If the problem is not with a particular fixture or appliance, or if there's no shutoff valve for the fixture or appliance, use the main shutoff valve to turn off the water supply to the entire house.
* You'll find the main shutoff valve on the inside or outside of your house where the main water supply pipe enters.
* In cold climates, look just inside the foundation wall in the basement or crawl space.
* Turn the valve clockwise to shut it off.
* Professional Tip If you need a wrench to turn the valve, keep one, specially labeled near the valve so it's handy.
* If the main shutoff valve itself is defective and needs to be repaired, call your water company; they can send someone out with the special tool that's required to shut off the water at the street before it reaches the valve.
A Leaking or Broken Pipe
* Turn off the main shutoff valve to prevent water damage.
* Make temporary repairs to stop the leak.
* The pipe will have to be replaced as soon as it's convenient to do so.
A Stopped-Up Sink
* Shut off any faucet or appliance (such as dishwasher) that's draining into the sink.
* Unclog the sink using a plunger or snake.
* DON'T use a chemical drain cleaner if the blockage is total.
A Faucet That Won't Shut Off
* Immediately turn off the water at the fixture shutoff valve underneath the sink.
* If there's no valve there, turn off the main shutoff valve.
* Repair the faucet or, if necessary, replace it.
A Steaming Hot Water Faucet
* Open all the hot water faucets to relieve the overheated hot water heater.
* Turn off the gas or electric supply to the heater.
* Let the faucets run until cold water flows from them (this indicates the water in the heater is no longer overheated).
* Close them.
* Call in a professional to make any necessary repairs to the heater's thermostat and pressure relief valve.

23.       Before Cold Weather, Prepare

• Make sure that all the garden hoses outside your home are disconnected. Failing to do so can cause not only the hose but also the hose bib to which it is connected, to freeze and be damaged.  This is especially important with "frost free" hose bibs. The hose must be disconnected to make the faucet freeze-proof. Failure to do so will trap water in the faucet body, which then can freeze. If the hose is disconnected, the anti-freeze faucet can properly drain, and this will prevent freezing.
• Water pipes which are exposed to freezing temperatures or drafts should be covered with insulation. Whenever possible it is best to drain systems not being used in severely cold weather. Small water pipes will freeze quicker than will waste or sewer pipes.
• Prevent drafts of frigid winter air. Secure all crawl space openings or windows and insulate and caulk any cracks in the structure's foundation.
• Consider installing specific products made to insulate water pipes like a "pipe sleeve" or installing UL-listed "heat tape," "heat cable" or similar materials on exposed water pipes. Many products are available at your local building supplies retailer. Pipes should be carefully wrapped, with ends butted tightly and joints wrapped with tape. Follow manufacturer's recommendations for installing and using these products.

During Cold Weather, Take Preventive Action

• Keep garage doors closed if there are water supply lines in the garage.
• Open kitchen and bathroom cabinet doors to allow warmer air to circulate around the plumbing. Be sure to move any harmful cleaners and household chemicals up out of the reach of children.
• When the weather is very cold outside, let the cold water drip from the faucet served by exposed pipes. Running water through the pipe—even at a trickle—helps prevent pipes from freezing because the temperature of the water running through it is above freezing.
• Keep the thermostat set to the same temperature both during the day and at night. By temporarily suspending the use of lower nighttime temperatures, you may incur a higher heating bill, but you can prevent a much more costly repair job if pipes freeze and burst.
• If you will be going away during cold weather, leave the heat on in your home, set to a temperature no lower than 55ºF.

24.       No plumbing problem is more common or more frustrating than a clogged drain.
* Kitchen sink drains clog most often because of a buildup of grease that traps food particles.
* Hair and soap are often at fault in bathroom drains.
Drains can usually be cleared easily and inexpensively, but taking some simple precautions will help you avoid stop-ups. Proper disposal of kitchen waste will keep sink drain clogs to a minimum.
* Don't pour grease down the kitchen sink.
* Don't wash coffee grounds down the sink. Throw them out.
* Be sparing with chemical cleaners, particularly if you have brass, steel, or cast-iron traps and drainpipes; some caustic chemicals can corrode metal pipes.
* If used no more than once every few months, cleaners containing sodium hydroxide or sodium nitrate can be safe and effective.
* Clean floor drain strainers. Some tubs, showers, and basement floor drains have strainers that are screwed into the drain opening. You can easily remove these strainers and reach down into the drain with a bent wire to clear out accumulated debris. And be sure to scrub the strainer.
* Clean pop-up stoppers in the bathroom sink and the tub regularly. Lift out sink pop-ups once a week and rinse them off.
* Every few months, remove the overflow plate on a tub and pull up the pop-up assembly to reach the spring or rocker arm. Remove accumulated hair and rinse thoroughly.
* Keep the sewer pipes from the house free of tree roots that may invade them. If roots are a particular problem in your yard, you may need to call in professionals once a year or so to clear the pipes. They'll use an electric auger to cut out the roots.
* Flush the drain-waste and vent systems whenever you go up onto your house roof to clean out downspouts or gutters. Run water from a garden hose into all vents, giving them a minute or two of full flow.

25,       You have a lot to consider when selecting a new water heater for your home. You should choose a water heating system that will not only provide enough hot water but also that will do so energy efficiently, saving you money. This includes considering the different types of water heaters available and determining the right size and fuel source for your home.
Types of Water Heaters
It's a good idea to know the different types of water heaters available before you purchase one:
· Conventional storage water heaters
Offer a ready reservoir (storage tank) of hot water (most common)
· Demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters
Heat water directly without the use of a storage tank (becoming more popular)
· Heat pump water heaters
Move heat from one place to another instead of generating heat directly for providing hot water
· Solar water heaters
Use the sun's heat to provide hot water
· Tankless coil and indirect water heaters
Use a home's heating system (boiler) to heat water.
Selection Criteria
When selecting the best type and model of water heater for your home, you also need to consider the following:
· Fuel type, availability and cost
The fuel type or energy source you use for water heating will not only affect the water heater's annual operation costs but also its size and energy efficiency.
· Size
To provide your household with enough hot water and to maximize efficiency, you need a properly sized water heater.
· Energy efficiency
To maximize your energy and cost savings, you want to know how energy efficient a water heater is before you purchase it.
· Costs
Before you purchase a water heater, it's also a good idea to estimate its annual operating costs and compare those costs with other less or more energy-efficient models.

26.       Sizing a Demand (Tankless or Instantaneous) Water Heater
Demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters are rated by the maximum temperature rise possible at a given flow rate. Therefore, to size a demand water heater, you need to determine the flow rate and the temperature rise you'll need for its application (whole house or a remote application, such as just a bathroom) in your home.

First, list the number of hot water devices you expect to use at any one time. Then, add up their flow rates (gallons per minute). This is the desired flow rate you'll want for the demand water heater. For example, let's say you expect to simultaneously run a hot water faucet with a flow rate of 0.75 gallons (2.84 liters) per minute and a shower head with a flow rate of 2.5 gallons (9.46 liters) per minute. The flow rate through the demand water heater would need to be at least 3.25 gallons (12.3 liters) per minute. To reduce flow rates, install low-flow water fixtures.

To determine temperature rise, subtract the incoming water temperature from the desired output temperature. Unless you know otherwise, assume that the incoming water temperature is 50ºF (10ºC). For most uses, you'll want your water heated to 120ºF (49ºC). In this example, you'd need a demand water heater that produces a temperature rise of 70ºF (39ºC) for most uses. For dishwashers without internal heaters and other such applications, you might want your water heated at 140ºF (60ºC). In that case, you'll need a temperature rise of 90ºF.

Most demand water heaters are rated for a variety of inlet temperatures. Typically, a 70ºF (39ºC) water temperature rise is possible at a flow rate of 5 gallons per minute through gas-fired demand water heaters and 2 gallons per minute through electric ones. Faster flow rates or cooler inlet temperatures can sometimes reduce the water temperature at the most distant faucet. Some types of tankless water heaters are thermostatically controlled; they can vary their output temperature according to the water flow rate and inlet temperature.

27.       If you turn on a faucet and only a trickle comes out, suspect a frozen pipe. Locate the suspected frozen area of the water pipe. Likely places include pipes running against exterior walls or where your water service enters your home through the foundation.

• Keep the faucet open. As you treat the frozen pipe and the frozen area begins to melt, water will begin to flow through the frozen area. Running water through the pipe will help melt more ice in the pipe.
• Apply heat to the section of pipe using an electric heating pad wrapped around the pipe, an electric hair dryer, a portable space heater (kept away from flammable materials) or wrapping pipes with towels soaked in hot water. Do not use a blowtorch, kerosene or propane heater, charcoal stove or other open flame device. A blowtorch can make water in a frozen pipe boil and cause the pipe to explode. All open flames in homes present a serious fire danger, as well as a severe risk of exposure to lethal carbon monoxide.
• Apply heat until full water pressure is restored. If you are unable to locate the frozen area, if the frozen area is not accessible or if you can not thaw the pipe, call a licensed plumber.
• Check all other faucets in your home to find out if you have additional frozen pipes. If one pipe freezes, others may freeze, too.

28.       When water continues to run after the toilet has been flushed, it is usually one of two things - either the fill valve or the flapper.  Same thing, if water continues to seep into the bowl or if there is a low humming noise.
A small amount of food coloring added to the tank water will help you determine whether the flapper is leaking. Add a few drops to the water in the tank after it is filled. Watch for the coloring to seep into the toilet bowl, and if it does, the flapper may be responsible. If the flapper is misshapen (scalloped),   covered with a slimy coating or when you touch it, rubber comes off on your finger - replace the flapper.
An overflow tube or pipe is provided in the toilet tank to take care of the water in case it rises above the correct level - which should be at about 3/4 of an inch below the top of the overflow pipe.  If the water rises to the top of the overflow pipe an adjustment or new fill-valve assembly is necessary. Consult your plumber if in doubt.

29.       For safety reasons, keep the temperature dial setting at or below the suggested Factory Setting listed on the water heater or in the manual. Above that setting will greatly increase the potential for scalding.  Any questions please call the manufacturer or your plumber.
All water heaters are required by law to be equipped with a temperature and pressure relief valve (t & p valve) as a safety feature to prevent damage from excessive pressure (>150 psi) or temperature (>210˚F).  If the t & p valve is discharging water you should call your plumber immediately. 
Flushing your water heater is something that should be done on a regular basis. The procedure is as follows:

• Hook a garden hose up to the bottom drain valve. Place the garden hose in a position to allow full discharge of the water through the hose ( into a floor drain, bath tub or street) *NOTE: THIS WATER WILL BE HOT AND IS A SCALD HAZARD!  THE TEMPERATURE MAY KILL PLANTS.
• Open the drain valve wide open. DO NOT CLOSE OFF THE INCOMING COLD WATER SUPPLY TO THE HEATER.
• Run the water out of the hose until the water runs clear (usually just a few seconds).
• Once the water is clear, shut off the bottom drain valve and remove the garden hose.

 
How long should my water heater last?
The answer is not simple.  While the average life expectancy of a water heater in our area is about 12 years (Yes, there are examples of water heaters lasting 20 and 30 years, but these are incredibly rare cases.), many things can affect the life of a water heater.

• Water softeners are utilized to reduce hardness in water, they can shorten the life a water heater by consuming the anode rod rapidly (generally within one year). Once the anode rod is consumed there is no protection in the water heater to prevent the water from dissolving the seam joints. When a water softener is installed the water softener needs to be bypassed once a year to allow some lime to buildup to protect the heater and slow down the anode rod consumption
• Water hammer can create short bursts of extremely high pressure, which can cause seams in the tank to crack and fail.
• Thermal expansion can create very high pressures and usually manifest itself by premature failure of the water tank or leaking t & p relief valves.  Thermal expansion is generally only a problem on a closed plumbing system.
• A closed plumbing system is  created when a device is placed in the piping that only allows the water to move in one direction. This is usually a backflow device or a "non-bypassing" pressure reducing valve (PRV).  Water expands as it is heated creating higher pressure and if there is no release of this pressure it can cause damage to the water heater and other fixtures (think washing machine hoses bursting while away on vacation).
• Under sizing of a water heater causes it to be "on" more frequently than a correctly sized water heater.  This can cause parts to fail much sooner than expected.
• Mineral deposits and buildup are corrosive and act as an insulator between the heats source (burner or elements) and the water causing the water heater to work harder to maintain the temperature.
• Missing anode rod due to water quality or removal of anode rod (See water softeners, above).

If you have a question or concern about any of these issues, call your plumber.

30.       Some houses have problems with standing water or moisture in the crawlspace, providing a perfect environment for mold growth and other problems. For mold to grow, three elements must be present—moisture, food, and warm temperatures. A crawlspace generally has all three of these elements in abundance. Of these, moisture is the dominant factor. We cannot control the food source (our home), and we cannot control the temperature, since crawlspaces are below grade and generally are around 60 degrees. We can, however, control the amount of moisture in our crawlspace which is the key to preventing or minimizing mold growth. Causes of standing water or moisture in crawlspaces may include plumbing leaks, groundwater, high water tables, porous soil near the foundation, condensation, poor ventilation, lack of rain gutters, and poor drainage or grading.
Moisture Problems
Standing water or moisture in crawlspaces can contribute to more problems than just mold. It can also result in structural damage from unstable wet soil, dry rot, potential indoor air quality problems, as well as the presence of termites and other unwanted pests attracted to moisture. Moisture in the crawlspace eventually will raise moisture levels throughout the house and can extend to attics and roof spaces. The extent of the problem depends on how much moisture is present and how often it exists.
Methods for Controlling Problem in Existing Homes

• Regularly inspect your crawlspace for signs of moisture. Promptly fix any leaks and try to control any other sources of moisture.
• Ensure that the entire crawlspace is covered with a plastic sheeting (6-mil black poly or equivalent).
• Be careful when watering lawns and landscaping. Don’t allow water to spray the house. 
• When ground water is the source of moisture, it may be necessary to create a drain system with a sump, equipped with an automatically controlled pump to remove water from the crawlspace.
• Check the gutters and leaders for breaks and blockages.
• Repair cracks in foundation walls and if necessary coat with a below-grade cement-based waterproofing paint.
• An exterior perimeter drain is another method for preventing water penetration.  The exterior drain collects the water that accumulates next to the foundation and redirects the water away from the foundation.

31.       Water Conservation not only will help save water, it will also save you money.

Did you know you can save....

3 gallons
By turning the water off each time you brush your teeth.
7 gallons a day
By fixing a leaky faucet right away
75-200 gallons per week
By running only full loads in the washing machine and dishwasher
20-25 gallons By taking a shower instead of a bath
200-300 gallons per month
By keeping a bottle of water in the refrigerator for drinking in order to not have to run the tap until the water gets cold enough to drink
1,000 gallons a month
By installing a flow restrictor in a shower (will cut water use by as much as two-thirds
1,500-2,000 gallons a day
By fixing a pin hole leaks (with 60 lbs. of pressure) right away

BATHROOM:

• Check faucets and pipes for leaks.
• Turn off the water while brushing your teeth or shaving, rather than running a steady stream.
• Limit showers to five minutes.
• Replace standard shower heads with low-volume heads or flow restrictors.
• Check your toilet periodically for leaks. Place a few drops of food coloring in the tank. After a few minutes, if you see color in the bowl, you have a leak, perhaps caused by a faulty flapper.
• Listen for gurgling sounds coming from your toilet. These noises indicate the flush valve needs to be adjusted to stop wasting water.
• In older toilets, fill a plastic, one quart bottle with water and place it in the toilet tank. To anchor the bottle, partially fill it with sand or any heavy substance. This does not affect the efficiency of most toilets and can save 5 or more gallons per day per a family of four. Do not use bricks to displace water in your toilet tank they will break down, over time, and can cause problems.
• Avoid using your toilet for a wastebasket or ashtray. Extra flushes waste water and money.

KITCHEN & LAUNDRY:

• Automatic dishwashers and washers are more efficient if run only when they are full.
• When washing dishes by hand, don't let the tap run freely to rinse. Fill the second side of the sink with rinse water.
• Fill a pitcher with drinking water and store it in the refrigerator.

OUTSIDE:

• When washing the car, use soap and water from a bucket. Use a hose with a shut-off nozzle for the final rinse.
• Use a broom when cleaning your driveway.
• Adjust sprinklers so only the lawn is watered and not the house, sidewalk, or street. Do not water on rainy or windy days. Check and maintain your sprinkler system regularly.
• Water your lawn every third day. Always water during the cool time of the day to minimize evaporation. Early morning is best, and the peak water consumption hours (4 p.m. - 9 p.m.) should be avoided.
• Adjust your irrigation schedule to accommodate changes in seasonal water demand. Install an automatic timer.
• For landscaping, use native or other low water use plants.
• Using a layer of mulch around plants reduces evaporation and promotes plant growth. Water retaining basins also allow water to be concentrated around the plants.

32.       A: First, turn off the water at the valve under the toilet. If it's a case of too much paper or other matter causing a stoppage, a plunger should work. If the toilet is not operating because the sewer is stopped up, a homeowner can help prevent overflowing by opening their sewer clean-out (located outside the building) to relieve the pressure on the system. Then call your plumber or a drain-cleaning company.
Your toilet is not a garbage disposal. Just because a product is called disposable doesn't mean it should be flushed down the toilet. Keep a waste paper basket in the bathroom for such things as gum, bandages and paper towels. Baby diapers and all sanitary products don't belong in a toilet. 
A clogged toilet is a tricky problem, so be careful with whatever method you use for cleaning the drain. Most water closets are made of vitreous china which might crack if exposed to extremely hot water,  pressure or force.

A plunger will normally handle simple toilet clogs.   Problems that  can arise are compacting the clog instead of dislodging it or creating enough pressure to blow out the wax seal.  Plumbers generally use an auger with an adjustable, crank-type handle. Use the auger carefully. Careless handling may crack the toilet.
 
If the rubber-cupped plunger or the auger does not clear the toilet, call your plumber.
Stains or moisture at the base of the closet bowl may indicate that the seal between the toilet and the drain has failed and should be reset immediately to prevent damage to your home and possible health hazards.

33.       Whole-house shutoff.  Knowing where and how to shut off water for the entire house is prudent for every member of the household to know.  The most important valve in the house is the main shut-off valve for the entire plumbing system. This valve, generally located near the foundation (inside or outside), in the basement or in the garage.  Standard practice has changed over the years and it depends on the layout of the house.  In some cases just locating this valve can be a chore.  If you can not find the valve or if it is inoperable your should have your plumber install one or replace the valve.
For water service leaks (the piping between your house and the water meter), the only way to shut this off is at the valve on the street side of the water meter.  This require a water meter key, which can be picked up at the hardware store.
Whole-house hot-water shutoff. There should be a valve on the cold-water inlet into your water heater.  This controls all of the hot water to the house. If there isn't one on yours, you or your plumber should install one.
Toilet shutoff. Look for this shutoff, typically with an oval handle and under the left side of the toilet tank.
Sink shutoffs. These shutoffs usually sit just beneath the sink or within the cabinet or vanity under the sink. The one on the left is usually for the hot water, the one on the right for cold water.
Dishwasher shutoff. Look first under the kitchen sink.  Not there? If you have an unfinished basement, look between the ceiling joists just below the appliance.
Icemaker shutoff. Look first under the kitchen sink.  Not there? If you have an unfinished basement, look between the ceiling joists just below the appliance.   Possibly, someone hooked up in the crawlspace.
Clothes washer. There should be valves where the house-supply lines meet the washer hoses. Washer hoses are notoriously weak, so always close the valves when leaving home for an extended period.

34.       There are several measures that can be taken to prevent winter water disasters.

• Locate and mark the main water cutoff valve for your home. This cutoff valve is usually found near where the water line comes into your house.
  Damage from running water can be minimized if you can turn off this valve quickly.
• Make sure the water line to outside hose bibs are turned off and the line is drained.
• Consider wrapping or insulating your water pipes, especially those pipes near outside walls, under the house, or in the attic. Insulation supplies are available at your local home improvement/hardware store.
• Find a contactor to install heat tape on particularly vulnerable pipes.
   
• Eliminate drafts. Check around the home for areas where water supply lines are located in unheated areas and take measures to prevent the flow of cold air in these areas. Look in the basement, crawl space, attic, garage, and under kitchen and bathroom cabinets. Both hot and cold water pipes in these areas should be insulated. A hot water supply line can freeze just as a cold water supply line can freeze if water is not running through the pipe, and the water temperature becomes cold.
   
• If your water pipes do freeze, never try to thaw a pipe with an open flame or torch. You can use a hair dryer or portable heater, but always be careful of the potential for electric shock in and around standing water.
   
• If you will be away from your home, keep the thermostat at a reasonable temperature and open doors to make sure all areas with water pipes are kept above freezing.

What if I lose the heat source in my home?
If you are staying in your home, or will be monitoring your home frequently, allow a faucet to drip cold water slowly.  At a minimum, the dripping faucet should be the one that is the greatest distance from your main water cutoff valve.  Also, consider allowing a slow drip in areas that are least protected from the cold (basements, crawl spaces, attics, the garage).  But, remember even moving water will freeze at 20˚F.
If your water pipes do freeze, never try to thaw a pipe with an open flame or torch.  You can use a hair dryer or portable heater, but always be careful of the potential for electric shock in and around standing water.

35.       Homeowners who used to simply turn down the thermostat in a vacated house for the winter are now closing down the plumbing system because of prohibitively high energy costs. Winterizing your plumbing is a virtually cost-free alternative to frozen pipes.
* Turn off the main shutoff valve or have the water company turn off service to the house.
* Starting at the top floor, open all faucets, both indoors and outside.
* When the last of the water has dripped from the taps, open the plug at the main shutoff valve if possible (you may have to contact the water company), and let it drain.
* Turn off the power or gas to the water heater and open its drain valve.
* To freezeproof the system, empty toilet bowls and tanks.
* Remove the clean out plugs on all sink traps or remove the traps, if necessary.
* Once emptied, replace them and fill with plumbing antifreeze mixed with water in the proportions specified for car in your climate.
* You won't be able to drain tub and shower taps. Instead, add at least a full quart of antifreeze.
* Don't put antifreeze into a dishwasher or clothes washer.
* If your home has a basement floor drain or a main house trap, fill each with full-strength antifreeze.